If your disposer is humming but not running when you flick the switch, there’s something caught in the grinder chamber. (The layout of your drain assembly may vary, depending on space constraints and whether you have a one- or two-bowl sink.) Tighten the parts by hand, then finish the job with a pair of tongue-and-groove pliers.
#HOW TO REMOVE A GARBAGE DISPOSAL FLANGE FROM A SINK INSTALL#
Install the plumbing – Connect the disposal to the P-trap and the trap to the drainpipe.Rotate the disposal so that the discharge tube can be easily connected to the drainpipe. Tighten the screws on the mounting assembly with a screwdriver or the tool that comes with the disposal. Mount the disposal – Hold the disposal up against the mounting assembly, and turn the mounting ring clockwise until the disposal locks into place.Connect the discharge tube to the disposal – Use the hardware provided to attach the discharge tube to the discharge outlet on the side of the disposal.Connect the green ground wire to the grounding screw on the disposal, then replace the cover plate. As needed, strip and splice the white wires to white and black to black using wire connectors. Pull the cord’s wires and the unit’s wires together inside the disposal’s electrical box. Insert the power cable at least 6 inches into the disposal’s cord connection slot and tighten the clamp screws. Make the electrical connections Remove the electrical cover plate on the new disposal.Then, from above, remove any excess silicone from around the flange seal. Tighten the screws on the mounting assembly, alternating screws as you tighten, until the ring is uniformly secure. From above the sink, press the flange into the drain hole.From underneath the sink, install the gasket, the backup ring if one comes with your model, the mounting ring and the snap ring over the neck of the sink flange. Install the mounting assembly – Apply a 3/8 inch bead of clear silicone around the rim of the sink flange where the rim meets the sink drain hole.If you have trouble with this step, consult the manufacturer’s directions. This should unlock the separate pieces of the mounting assembly. Disassemble the new disposal hardware – Most new disposals are shipped assembled, so you have to disengage the mounting assembly from the body of the disposal, then pry the snap ring off of the mounting ring with a screwdriver.Clear any remaining plumber’s putty, old sealing gaskets or other debris from the area before you install the new hardware. Pull the mounting ring away from the sink flange and remove any backup rings, gaskets or other parts of the mounting assembly.From above, pry the sink flange out of the drain hole. Remove the old mounting ring and sink flange – Use a screwdriver to pry off the snap ring on the old mounting assembly, and remove the screws that connect the mounting ring to the sink flange.If there’s no current, pull the wires apart and loosen the clamp that holds the electrical cable. Then, to be doubly sure that the power is off, carefully remove the wire connectors that join the wires inside, and use a voltage tester to test individual wires. Disconnect the disposal’s electrical wiring – Once the disposal is disengaged, remove the screws securing its electrical cover plate, which is usually on the bottom of the unit.In that case, use a screwdriver.) Turn the assembly counterclockwise to release the disposal from its mounting. (The disposal probably came with a special tool for those screws, but chances are you won’t be able to find it. Hold the disposal from underneath with one hand while you loosen the screws on the side of the mounting assembly.
(You may also find a clean out plug on the underside of the pipe.) Once the P-trap is drained, remove hose clamps, discharge tubes and any other fittings that connect the old disposal to the drain pipe.
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